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Hanae Mori and More Traditional Japanese Fashion Designers!

Karina Ikedo

Karina Ikedo

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A woman wearing a fashionable kimono.

Hanae Mori was a pioneering Japanese fashion designer who significantly influenced the global fashion scene. Japan has long been a center of creative inspiration, and its fashion industry is no exception. Mori’s work has profoundly impacted Western fashion, showcasing unique designs that blend traditional Japanese elements with contemporary styles.

What makes Japan’s fashion scene particularly fascinating is the recent revival of traditional clothing designs. Many Japanese designers, including Mori, are looking back to their cultural roots for inspiration. From renowned figures like Hanae Mori and Kansai Yamamoto to innovative talents like Hiromi Asai, the influence of traditional Japanese fashion continues to inspire designers worldwide.

Hanae Mori

Hanae Mori was a Japanese fashion designer who opened her studio in 1951. She began her career over 70 years ago and was in charge of hundreds of film costumes during the golden age of Japanese films in the 1950s. Mori was uniquely qualified, being from the only family in her town who had dressed in Western clothes. 

Hanae Mori in her atelier.
Hanae Mori was the first Japanese female designer to present at Paris Fashion Week. Image via The Guardian

She turned traditional Japanese clothing into garments appealing to Westerners and made Western fits comprehensible to Japanese women. Over the decades, Nancy Reagan, Grace Kelly, and countless members of high society wore Mori’s luxurious creations. But she was also a pioneer for Japanese women, one of a tiny number to head an international corporation. Mori is just one of the two Japanese women who have presented collections on the Paris and New York City runways. 

Hanae Mori’s legacy in the fashion industry continues to influence designers worldwide, and the fashion community celebrates her contributions to haute couture. In 1996, the Japanese Government awarded her the Order of Culture, making her the first fashion designer to receive this honor. Her brand extended beyond fashion to include fragrances, accessories, and even a line of wedding dresses. 

Kansai Yamamoto

Kansai Yamamoto was a fashion designer born in 1944 in Yokohama, Japan. His work has a unique style that uses maximalism in a captivating way. He established Yamamoto Kansai Company in 1972 and debuted his first collection in London and the United States. This collection made Yamamoto the first Japanese designer to have a show in London. 

A model wearing a decorative poncho designed by Kansai Yamamoto.
Kansai Yamamoto’s had fantastical elements to it. Image via Dazed

Despite his many other achievements, what most attributed to Yamamoto’s fame was how, in 1972, he designed for David Bowie. The striking Ziggy Stardust costumes had bold pieces that incorporated traditional Japanese designs. Like Bowie, he has dressed Elton John, Stevie Wonder, and Lady Gaga. He even turned his hand to transport, designing the streamlined Skyliner train in Tokyo. In 2018, Yamamoto collaborated with Louis Vuitton, creating classic Japanese art used in the 2018 Resort Collection.

Hiromi Asai

A bunch of models wearing kimonos by Hiromi Asai
In recent years, Hiromi Asai focuses on men’s clothing with kimono patterns. Image via Newsweek

Hiromi Asai is a United States-based fashion designer and kimono stylist who mainly uses high-end kimono textiles. She started with women’s kimono but then expanded her collection to men’s wear. The designer is concerned with preserving the vitality of the kimono, which has a long history. At the New York Fashion Week 2016, Asai showed her kimono designs on the runway. Her designs are sleek, bold, and colorful. Hiromi integrates fabrics of the highest quality with a sophisticated, elegant look.

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Jotaro Saito

A model wearing a colorful pink, red and blue kimono by Jotaro Saito.
Jotaro Saito’s kimono patterns are bold and contemporary. Image via Fashion Press

Jotaro Saito is a kimono designer who attempts to bring the kimono to everyday life. Born into an artistic family, Saito was influenced by his father and grandfather, who specialized in kimono dyeing techniques. Saito debuted at 27 as one of the youngest kimono designers in the limelight. Since then, Jotaro Saito has pursued kimono as fashion matched with modern space. This could be seen in 2008 at Tokyo Fashion Week when he showcased a denim kimono. 

Chiso

Women posing in Chiso kimonos.
Chiso has handcrafted kimonos for over 460 years. Image via Generations of Craft

Chiso has created Japanese beauty by creating kimonos and various products based on unique traditions. Hundreds of years of generational knowledge have been passed through Chiso’s hands. They are famous for the very fine kyo-yuzen (a method of applying dye directly to the cloth). This technique combines beautiful colors with natural designs such as flowers, trees, and birds. The designs are drawn and dyed on white silk by brush and often finished with gold leaf. 

Hiroko Takahashi

Hiroko Takahashi is a Japanese textile designer who became famous for her modern reinterpretation of the classic kimono. She is based in Sumida, Tokyo, the home to the sumo-beya (the stables where sumo wrestlers train and live). Since 2018, Hiroko has been designing the yukata (informal summer kimono) worn in sumo wrestling in Tokyo

Hiroko Takahashi wearing her own Japanese kimono. It's black and white.
Hiroko Takahashi has a sharp, geometric style. Image via GQ Japan

Hiroko’s work is characterized by patterns consisting of simple but essential graphic elements. Instead of using traditional kimono patterns such as flowers or birds, Takahashi created her own composition. The designer is fond of straight lines and circles. The patterns stand out because of her use of monochrome. A kimono made by Hiroko was featured in the Victoria and Albert Museum, Europe’s first major exhibition dedicated to kimonos.

Why should I check out fashion designers like Hanae Mori?

A bunch of women wearing kimonos of red, orange and black as they go up the stairs.
Which of these designers do you like the most? Image via Shutterstock

Hanae Mori and other Japanese designers brought a distinctive perspective, blending cultural heritage with cutting-edge design. Their ability to create wearable art makes Japanese fashion incredibly diverse and influential. Japanese fashion is highly valued not only in its homeland. But thanks to the efforts of famous Japanese designers, it is now popular worldwide. This is just the beginning of Japan’s impact on global fashion! Have you heard of these Japanese fashion designers before? Share your thoughts in the comments below!

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